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Pot light stopped working in Toronto



Licensed electrician quickly repairs pot lights that do not work anymore

Replace recessed light fixture
Pot light electrician in Thornhill
Pot light replacement in Toronto

Recessed lights on a very high ceiling

Moving pot light on the ceiling or relocate it

Replace old pot light with smaller diameter pot light

Light bulb is not working, flickering, on and off randomly



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Pot light replacement in Toronto




Etobicoke replace pot lights that has stopped working Mississauga, electrician to relocate pot light in Toronto and Vaughan, replace old recessed in Woodbridge, pot light is not working even with a brand new light bulb in Richmond Hill


Installing pot lights (recessed lighting) in the house.

We are going to install 22 pcs of 4" pot lights on the main floor. Or should we go with 6" ones? Especially over the sink and in the dining room.

After the lighting is in place we will put up the drywall and crown molding.

Will the 4" lights look better compared to the 6" ones? Ceiling height is 9 1/2".

Should we have variable spacing between the lights, or equal, is the symmetry mandatory?

I would prefer 6" fixtures. Because the 4" is more suited for accent lighting or a smaller areas.

And what if there are ducts, pipes, wiring or other obstacles in the ceiling. What if I can't fit a housing up there.

How do I know what the code requirements are? Should I check with municipal regulators or call a building inspector? Might I forfeit my home insurance if I do it all by myself?

Another customer emailed me this: I'm renovating father's house and already have installed boxes for pot lights because the ceiling will be insulated. How can I precisely determine the exact position of the openings and cut holes in drywall before it is installed in order to match the drywall holes with those of installed boxes?

The answer is, measure the distance and location of the hole from the adjacent sheet of drywall and mark it on the next sheet to be put up. First, make a smaller hole and then widen it to the correct diameter and position after the drywall is up.

Or put some wet drywall compound (mud) around the rim of each box opening/ring, then raise the sheet up into its place, and push it up against each opening. Put the sheet on the floor. You will see rings on the back of the drywall sheet reflecting potlights' precise locations. Use a hole saw to cut the holes from the face side of the drywall.

I need to insert three cables all together into the pot light's junction box. The problem is that the junction box allows maximum of four single wires. What should I do? My answer is - rearrange wires and use no more than two cables with four single conductors per JB.

To hook up your potlights to the power source, find a nearest working receptacle (R) or a switch (S) that has both a “hot” and a neutral wires inside its box. Make sure that particular circuit supplying current to the plug or switch is under-loaded. The circuit you choose must not be overloaded by the additional lights. Calculate the total wattage, divided by 110 V result gives you the total load in Amps. It should be 13 Amp or less if tapping off of the existing circuit.

To determine a pre-existing load, you first need to shut down a single circuit breaker in the panel that controls your receptacle (R) or switch (S). Then go all over the house and find which lights and plugs are NOT working now. These dead lights and receptacles are the existing loads on the receptacle (R) or switch (S) circuit. Assign 150 W to every wall plug. Then add up wattage of all non working lights, plugs and appliances. Write down the total number. Add to this number the total wattage of the new potlights. Do not go over the grand total of 1400 watts for a 15-amp breaker. Otherwise you have to run or fish a new line from the greater distance or all the way from the panel.

Keep in mind that if you use or think you are going to run a portable plug-in heater, you can not utilize that circuit. The heater alone draws 8 to 14 Amps and with other loads that line will trip its breaker, making impossible to engage it together with the lights.

Before doing any electrical work, test every wire with a non-contact voltage tester to make sure they’re NOT hot and then test them with a contact voltage tester before touching. Socket with a bulb could work almost as good as a contact voltage tester until you hit a 240 V pair of wires. You will then need to replace the blown light bulb.

Final piece of advice. Don't do it yourself unless you are absolutely sure you are doing it the right way.